Summit or a Failure? - Starved!! Kailash Kund Yatra Part - 2
"Explore and Evolve, before you Dissolve"
This quote holds true, holds true so truly that pilgrims continue their journey without water to reach their God. But I wasn't so religious. For me it was just a trekking (converted to climbing) trip just to experience the different phenomenon of glaciers. Why did I continued without water when I was starved?
'Hope!!' & 'Passion' are two deadly words that can move a mountain but what if these two words combine....
This post is in Continuation of my previous post where I explored Sarthal with my Guide Jaswant Singh. Read Part - 1
This post is in Continuation of my previous post where I explored Sarthal with my Guide Jaswant Singh. Read Part - 1
|Frozen Kailash Kund below this peak|
Night at Sarthal was a comfortable one for the only present tourist in the destination with midnight chirping of birds. I wonder what were they doing midnight. As promised by our cook Abdul Rashid we were given our packed food at 5.00 am which consisted of eight paranthas and 'Aloo ki sabzi'.
We weren't riding from Sarthal to Chattragala due to lack of parking facilities and fear of theft of my little black beast (bike). No metador was scheduled for this day of 20th may, 2017 heading towards Chattragala and then Bhaderwah. So we decided to hike through the lush green meadows all the way to Chattragala which could have taken up to three hours. Somehow after the first kilometer we heard a horn and to our luck it was a private vehicle heading to our destination - Chattragala carrying an elderly couple. Old gujjar couple was generous enough to offer us a ride for few bucks.
|Road to Chattragala Pass|
Ride to Chattragala was the best and most scenic road trips I had ever experienced since 1993, (year of evolution). The dirt yet a smooth road was winding in such a pattern that I wondered if BRO made few knots out of road while designing it, but to our luck there were no such road-loops. Scenery was as beautiful as the colour of clear blue sky and the contrast of green and blue along with the little yet gushing river made the high towering mountains expand their chest just like a body builder.
I could Hear Radio FM of Jalandhar in this remote part of newly considered alternate to Kashmir yet more beautiful than it.
We reached Chattragala in half an hour and it appeared like a post war abandoned settlement few two gujjars waiting for their guests who were kind enough to offer us a lift. I called at home to inform my location as Sarthal is devoid of modern networks and I think this is a great feature of Sarthal that distinguishes it from other areas.
Trail to Kailash Kund (also known as BasKund) was so clearly marked that an elderly couple hiking solo wouldn't find it difficult to trace the route. There is a water source traceable after 45 minutes of hike and little did we know it was the turning point of our little to be climbing expedition.
Views enroute are tremendous with white and purple rhododendron bushes marking the boundary of trail highway.
After a hike of another 1.5 hours and cherishing views we reached a meadow with wild yellow, blue and pink flowers spread all over. To the west were high peaks of Kablas (local name for kailash mountains) and to the east Bhaderwah valley welcoming the sun rays.
|Trail clearly visible. At some points it was as wide as a NH|
|Bhaderwah Town Visible|
|Peaks of Kablas. It amuses me to know that Kathua district has a glacier of it's own.|
It's always great to be above the treeline as one can cherish the openness of mother nature and you can feel a direct contact between yourself and the mountains. There was a cool breeze which my fleece burnt arms needed like a fish needs water. I had a base layer with half sleeves, so wearing fleece at night made a direct contact between my forearm and fleece which had caused a reaction. (My mistakes in Himalayas continue even today). It had been around 2.5 hours and we reached a diversion.
"sometimes a difficult route is the safest,
While the easiest ones are dangerous "
The route on the right was a flat trail which traverses the mountain passing through few gullies and connects to the kund. While other route is a difficult one where the trail leads to the top of a ridge and then there comes a steep descent. Easier is of course the traverse but at this hour of season it was loaded with soft Virgin snow and traversing few kilometers on a steep slope was not our cup of tea without an ice axe. The other route which involved ascending and descending was completely dry of snow though not of boulders and moraines.
Over a bar of chocolate as our refreshment it was decided to climb the hill and then descend. It didn't looked difficult in any case.
Red Route - We followed
Green Route - The right traverse followed mostly in yatra
Yellow route- we could have taken it but we thought following red line may give us a chance to later get to green line
The original climbing route does not involve climbing on the ridge, but a slope on the left of ridge makes an easier trail. But we took the third route (centre of ridge), neither left slope nor right traverse in a hope that we would find a wat to traversing right path we had left earlier. Though it never happened.
In the opinion of Jaswant (my guide) we would later on traverse the hill to right to join the path we had left earlier. But as we went on climbing the ridge without any water source the slope to right became more steeper with more virgin soft snow and the slope to the left which is another
route we left.
Our trek was now converting into more of a climbing expedition with boulders about six feet welcoming us. Climbing them and avoiding the rock crevices we somehow reached the top of peak. Sometimes we walked over snow path to relax our feet after a rocky walk. But the snow on the not so wide ridge didn't allow us to walk for a longer time in it. There were cornices on the edge on the snow which would drag us 1000 feet down straight to Bhaderwah and we didn't wanted such a quick descent.
|Right traverse hidden under snow|
|One slip would land us down the snowy valley about 1000 feet down|
Weather opened up after few cumulus clouds which reflected in a vast snow field to our left. The changing colours of snow was the result of cloud shadows and all that happened at a quick pace just like it happens in a fast forward mode of a video player. Nature was showing it's unique skills to us. The open weather was also kind enough to sow the seeds of sun burn on my body as I didn't apply a sun screen thinking of it to be a cool weather up there.
I couldn't walk much and stopped for rest after every 3 minutes of walk. I had 400 ml of water but I saved it for the descend to lake. I never take risks. I knew somewhere in my heart that there is a possibility of our team of two turning back from ridge if the descend on other side isn't possible or if the lake is frozen to core. We would be water starved as we didn't carry a stove but only few dry wood enough to warm us and our dinner.
We didn't had a utensil to collect melted snow and burning the snow field was a stupid and reward less idea which I came across. How will the wood even burn in soft snow I thought and burning snow out of burning wood was in any case impossible. Neither wood would burn neither the white snow. What actually burnt was my skin and my throat crying for water.After 7 hours of difficult ascent we had climbed a peak from it's ridge and then another higher ridge was below us providing beautiful views of the other side. The other side was covered in complete white layer of fresh snow. We could spot the routes coming from Bhaderwah and Seoj side and in fact the right traverse we had left which were completely buried under snow. We had chosen the safest route available.
|On The Rocks!|
|Large snowfield to the left. It dries up completely in summers.|
|Only Possible route|
|Approaching the summit ridge|
|Rock Tank on the Summit|
|Another ridge to climb. Kailash Kund is behind this.|
The descent on other side involved huge sharp rocky boulders with fresh snow and ice trapped in them. It was to be a mixed climbing and we weren't trained by 'Ueli Steck'. I could see a water source at kailash kund but I preferred the one we found at the start of trek, which was still 3 hours of descent away.
I went with my instincts as we were not the right team who could make it to the lake. I could have done it easily with my trusted trek partners but with a guide who was as novice as me and a stranger who had a immature and eager tone is his voice when I asked him about the descend I decided not to continue with him anymore. It was the ice in rocks that was a major hurdle and lack of equipment. Sometimes our instincts are so strong that we have to decide between a summit with chances of a rescue or simply getting down.
I was and am never greedy of a summit, the journey and views matter the most.
|The trail coming from Bhaderwah buried under snow. (The snowy ridge above in photo)|
|The right traverse on the right we had left opens up in this snow field|
|Frozen lakes- To the right is 'Rishi Pishi Dal'|
|Route to descend with ice trapped in sharp rocks.|
Not wasting much of time and lack of water we began our descent via the gulley between ridge and the snow bound slope to our left. Feet were aching and we hadn't had a proper lunch yet. Somehow covering the most of moraine field we managed to apply some brakes on our aching feet to stop for a lunch break of pranthas we had packed. Water level reduced to 200 ml with me and 300 with him and we still had a great portion of moraine field. Half a litre water is enough but not for hungry, dehydrated humans who still had 3 hour journey to cover.
My right knee was aching now and I could use only one sideways position to descend with support of my hiking pole.
2 hours went by and speed as slow as snail. I badly wanted to rest as it had been 9 hours of climbing since morning and we had the option of staying in few gujjar huts,we had good but we didn't had water.Walking and praying I reached a snow slope and I had no energy to dig the steps. I decided to eat snow to satisfy my thirst but only to increase my thirst. Eating snow can never satisfy anyone. It was about 100 metres from water point , the very first water point and the only water point, that I could feel hangovers and Jaswant too needed a crocin tablet to take care of his headache. I had one so I gave it to him. We reached the water point some how I lay down on the dark slippery rock and thanked lord that he survived me. Having some leftover chocolates I managed to keep a slow pace and finally we reached our base- Chattragala pass. I released toxins from my dehydrated body and were building in my urinary bladder.
|Still a lot of morains to cross just to reach the treeline. It was the longest walk ever.|
After almost 11.5 hours of trek in a litre of water and three paranthas, I and Jaswant began looking for a shelter in abandoned army camps and their security post was the cleanest and sturdiest of all. We lit a bonfire outside and dinner was self served which was again the same pranthas and aloo ki sabzi.
The night was coldest of all, as I had to sacrifice my sleeping mattress for jaswant who had only a blanket despite of being promised a sleeping bag for him by Tourist cottage at Sarthal. He had trekked with a double blanket on all those hard boulders. One can now imagine the remoteness and lack of Infrastructure for trekking in this place. Wind was blowing so harsh that it hit the aluminium sheds of little temple as if our enemy country had attacked on it. The tiny sparkles in ashes of bonfire lit by itself in strong wind that we had to cool the fire by using our water.
|Bonfire outside Chowki.|
|Unique peaks of Kishtwar visible in the last|